Actives for Cosmetics
ACTIVES
NDGA – CHAPPARRAL PLANT EXTRACT
What is it? NDGA is a bioactive component of the
Mexican desert plant, Larrea Divaricata -
an antioxidant, lipoxygenase inhibitor as
well as an inhibitor of peptido-
leukotriene biosynthesis
What are its benefits? Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid (NDGA) is a
powerful antioxidant for use in skin care
systems ranging from 0.001% to 0.01%
w/w. Recent studies of NDGA have
revealed biological properties as a free-
radical scavenger and a protective agent
against keratosis caused by exposure to
UV light.
Anti-inflammatory: Mitigates the
inflammatory response in skin. NDGA
inhibits the synthesis of inflammatory
mediators such as prostaglandins and
leukotrines by blocking the actions of
the enzyme lipoxygenase. NDGA is able
to block chemically induced skin
irritation.
Blocks UV Effects: As a natural phenolic
(resin) prevents UV induced skin
damage by inhibiting UVB-induced c-fos
and AP-1 transactivation in the HaCaT
keratinocyte cell line. NDGA blocks UV-
induced gene activation of inflammatory
cytokines in the skin. Prevents pre-
mature ageing.
Anticellulite: Reduces the accumulation
of fat deposits in skin. NDGA prevents
lipid accumulation in lipid storage cells,
adipocytes.
Anti-aging: Indirectly inhibits the
production of enzymes that can break
down the skin and reduces fine lines and
wrinkles.
Anti-Acne: Reduces sebum availabl to
nourish bacteria or plug pores and helps
clear visible blemishes.
Are there any side effects? Ocular irritation assay: Displayed
minimal ocular irritation at
concentrations up to 0.2%.
Dermal irritation assay: Classified as a
non-irritant/ irritant at concentrations
up to 0.2%.
GOTU KOLA – CENTELLA ASIATICA
What is it? Centella asiatica (also known as gotu
kola and Hydrocotyle asiatica) is a
perennial, herbaceous creeper with
kidneyshaped leaves, found in India, Sri
Lanka, Madagascar, South Africa,
Australia, China, and Japan.
Centella contains several active
constituents, of which the most
important are the triterpenoid saponins,
including asiaticoside, centelloside,
madecassoside, and asiatic acid. In
addtion,Centella contains other
components, including volatile oils,
flavonoids, tannins, phytosterols, amino
acids, and sugars.
Are there any side effects? Alcoholic extracts of gotu kola have
shown no toxicity at doses of 350 mg/kg
when given i.p. In adults, the
recommended daily dose of TTFCA (or
TECA) extracts standardized for
asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic
acid is 60-120 mg. The recommended
daily dosages of crude herb and 1:5
tincture are 0.5-6 g and 10-20 mL,
respectively.
Gotu kola should be avoided during
pregnancy,due to its emmenagogue
action.
What are its benefits?Application of small amounts of cafestol
to living skin models results in a
significant, dose-dependent increase in
more than one major stratum corneum
lipid and, the amount of ceramide over
a period of days.
The cafestol containing compositions
can be used in prevention or treatment
of dry skin conditions generally, or
specific dry skin conditions, such as
result from regular exposure to
detergents, soaps seasonal exposure to
harsh weather conditions.
The cafestol compositions can be used
in prevention of further damage to
aging skin, or treatment and/or reversal
of already present damage.
The compositions can also be used in
the treatment of a defective skin barrier,
such as occurs on the soles of the feet,
and palms of the hands, where the
stratum corneum is very thick, but the
lipid barrier is poor. In formulating such
compositions, cafestol is incorporated in
an amount of from about 0.001 to 50
mg/ml, preferably about 0.005 to 10.0
mg/ml, more preferably about 0.01 to
1.0 mg/ml, and most preferably 0.1 to 1
mg/ml of composition.
What is it? Cafestol is a diterpene molecule present
in coffee. A typical bean of Coffea
Arabica contains about 0.6% of cafestol
by weight. Coffea Robusta has a slightly
higher content.
Are there any side effects? There are no known side effects known
for dosages upto 50 mg/ml.
What are its benefits? Dermopharmaceutical or cosmetic
compositions of Pinitol are used for
preparation of formulations for the care
of the skin, mucous membranes, skin
appendages or scalp against the
consequences of dry skin whatever the
origin (physiological, climate, pollution,
exposure to solar UV natural or
artificial).
The same mechanism allows the
formulation to obtain anti-aging and
wrinkle properties, thus extending the
flexibility and the protective function of
the skin.
What is it? Pinitol (sometimes referred to as D-
Pinitol) is a type of sugar that occurs in
many types of legumes and is classified
as a Chiro-insositol (meaning it is a
sugar alcohol). It is often referred to as
3-O-methyl-D-chiro-inositol in scientific
literature, or more properly, 3-0-methyl-
1,2,4 cis-3,5,6 trans-
hexahydroxycyclohexanol.
Are there any side effects? There are currently no known examples
of any adverse side effects with the use
of Pinitol at recommended dosage
levels 0.01% and 50%(W / w)
*Indfrag extracts pinitol from the resin
of the Sugar Pine. Planks of Sugar Pine
travel halfway around the world from
the Pine forests of Oregon to Hosur near
India's Silicon Valley where expert
chemists use world class facilities to
extract the compound.
What are its benefits? Centella asiatica is a mild adaptogen, is
mildly antibacterial, anti-viral, anti-
inflammatory, anti-ulcerogenic,
anxiolytic, a cerebral tonic, a circulatory stimulant, a diuretic, nervine and
vulnerary. Several scientific reports have
documented Centella asiatica's ability to
aid wound healing, which is responsible
for its traditional use in leprosy. Upon
treatment with Centella asiatica,
maturation of the scar is stimulated by
the production of type I collagen. The
treatment also results in a marked
decrease in inflammatory reaction and
myofibroblast production. Centella
asiatica is used to re-vitalize the brain
and nervous system, increase attention
span and concentration , and combat
aging.Centella asiatica also has anti-
oxidant properties.
[4]
It works for venous
insufficiency
What is it? The purple mangosteen (Garcinia
mangostana), colloquially known simply
as mangosteen, is
a tropical evergreen tree believed to have
originated in the Sunda Islands and
the Moluccas of Indonesia. The tree grows
from 7 to 25 m (20–80 ft) tall. The rind
(exocarp) of the edible fruit is deep reddish
purple when ripe. Botanically an aril, the
fragrant edible flesh can be described as
sweet and tangy, citrusy with a flavour and
texture similar to a peach.
Are there any side effects? Mangosteen has no noticeable side effects
with the following dosage preparations: (all
of the rind): Extract, dose 3 to 10 grains;
Tincture (1 in 10), dose: 1/2 to 1 drachm;
Syrup (1 in 10), dose: 1/2 to 1 drachm;
Decoction (1 in 10), dose: 4 ounces; Powder,
dose: 10 to 60 grains and juice.
What are its benefits?
Anti-inflammatory: Ethanol extracts of
mangosteen has potent inhibitory activities
of both histamine release and prostaglandin
E2 synthesis.
Antioxidant: The methanol extract of the
fruit hulls of mangosteen exhibit a potent
radical scavenging effect
Technical data and scientific studies confirm
that this extract is an excellent choice for
antibacterial, antifungal and anti-
inflammatory effects on the skin. These are
exactly the conditions encountered in acne-
prone skin where soaps, creams and washes
ideally suit the use of the extract. Made into
an ointment, it is applied on eczema and
other skin disorders
What is it? Green tea - Camellia sinensis is a large
shrub with white flowers and is indigenous
to Asia and China, but commercially grown
in Africa, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and Indonesia.
The young leaves and buds are used. The
same plant is used to produce green, black
and oolong tea. When green tea is made
the leaves are rapidly dried, while black tea
is first fermented and then dried and
oolong tea is only partly fermented before
drying.
Are there any side effects? Green tea has fewer or no side effects as
compared to other drug based products
What are its benefits?
The flavonoids and catechols in green tea
provide it with vitamin P properties while
the tannins interact with proteins and
are astringent and also
have antioxidant activity. One of the
polyphenols in green tea - Epigallocatechin
galate (EGCC) is thought to be 200
times more powerful than vitamin E for
neutralizing free radicals. The antioxidant
effect of green tea has a protective role to
play as well, since it prevents free radical
damage and possible skin tumors and
cancers and can be used in confidence as
an anti-aging ingredient in skin care
preparations. The EGCC in green tea is
effectively absorbed via the skin.
Green tea is a potent anti-inflammatory
agent thereby reducing inflammation in the
skin, and most importantly having an
inhibitory action on collagenase, which is
a collagen-reducing enzyme that breaks
down collagen. Since green tea helps to
inhibit collagenase, the topical use of green
tea helps to promote thehealth and quantity
of collagen, thereby maintaining a firm and
elastic skin.
The Methylxanthines contained in green tea
also stimulates skin microcirculation and
therefore positively influence the tone and
health of the skin. Green tea also exhibits
a photo protective effect when applied to
the skin and reduces erythema formation. In
some studies it also showed that
polyphenols found in green tea limited cell
death when exposed to radiation, thereby
showing that these polyphenols have a cell-
protecting function as well.
What is it? Chlorogenic acid is a hydroxycinnamic acid,
a member of a family of naturally occurring
organic compounds. It belongs to a family
of esters formed between trans-cinnamic
acids and quinic acid. Green Coffee beans
are one of the richest sources of
chlorogenic acid.
Are there any side effects? Green tea has fewer or no side effects as
compared to other drug based products
What are its benefits?
Antioxidant: Chlorogenic Acid is known to
have radical scavenging properties. This
antioxidant effect makes it an ideal
application for skin creams and lotions.
Anti-tumor: Chlorogenic acid is an
antioxidant and an inhibitor of the tumor
promoting activity of phorbol esters. Topical
application helps protect against skin
cancer.
Antibacterial: The anti-bacterial properties
of chlorogenic acid make it an ideal
application for anti-acne usage as it
prevents acne formation due to bacterial
infection.
Anti-Infalmmatory effect: Studies have
shown it to have anti-inflammatory effect.
Are there any side effects?
Chlorogenic acid is safe. It is claimed to
have antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal
effects with relatively low toxicity and side
effects, alongside properties that do not
lead to antimicrobial resistance.
OILS
What is it? Neem is a tree found in India and South
East Asia. It has been studies and used
since ancient times for medicinal
properties.
What are its benefits?
AntiSeptic Properties: The Neem oil is
known to have very high antiseptic
properties. This is very useful for
treating skin problem and therefore
Neem oil products are widely available
in the market. Neem seed oil is highly
beneficial for treating epidermal
conditions such as acne, eczema and
psoriasis. Neem oil is also useful for
treating infected burns, septic sores,
scrofula, indolent ulcers and ringworm.
This oil also has no other side effects as
compared to other options that are.
Skin Care: Neem oil products for the
skin are also very popular. Due to the
properties of the Neem oil, it is used in
different toiletries soap and skin care
products. This oil has moisturizing
properties and contains Vitamin E as
well as essential fatty acids. Neem oil is
very useful for treating acne. For this a
small amount is formulated into skin
lotions, face wash or the regular facial
mask and used on the affected areas.
Neem tree oil is also used in creams that
help to soothe and protect the skin.
Hair Care: Neem oil is also useful for
prevention of dandruff and hair lice.
There are various hair care products that
use neem oil to keep hair looking great
at all times Neem oil lotions that are
made to soothe itchy and dry skin. Pure
Neem oil can also be applied to hair
directly for faster results.
Are there any side effects? There are no side effects reported
What is it? Luffa cylindrica is a member of the
cucurbitaceae family, which looks like a
cucumber. Luffa plants are native to
India. Luffa cylindrica or cylindrical seed
oil comes from the seeds found within
the fibrous part of the luffa gourd's fruit.
The seeds are pressed to produce the
oil.
What are its benefits?
In cosmetics, luffa cylindrical seed oil is
used for its antifungal, anti-
inflammatory and anti-tumor properties.
It is high in the essential amino acid,
arginine.
It is used in mineral based make up
because of the healing powers of its
anti-fungal and inflammatory traits. Not
only is mineral makeup considered a
natural sunscreen, but the fine, silky
texture allows skin to breathe, while
moisturizing and preventing bacteria
from causing flaws and imperfections.
Its high toxicity to skin cancer cells is
why it is used in sunscreen products.
The high content of arginine, which is
an essential amino acid that plays an
important role in cell division and
healing of wounds, provides healthy cell
benefits when used in facial makeup.
The seed oil is a rich emollient that
adds smoothness and softness to the
skin. Because it is a natural vegetable oil,
it contains moisturizing elements for use
in anti-aging cosmetics
Are there any side effects? Luffa oil is considered extremely safe,
with very little or no toxicity reported
What is it? A pomegranate (Punica granatum) is a
fruit-bearing deciduous shrub or small
tree growing between five and eight
meters tall. The pomegranate is mostly
native to the Iranian Plateau and the
Himalayas.
What are its benefits?
Anti-Oxidant: Pomegranate seed oil
possesses powerful antioxidant
properties and can help prevent and
treat a variety of cancers including
breast cancer and skin cancer. Studies
have shown that pomegranate oil is
effective at killing and preventing the
formation of both estrogen dependent
and non-estrogen dependent cancer
cells.
Anti-Ageing: Pomegranate oil is a pomegranate seed oil stimulates
keratinocyte proliferation, promoting
regeneration and strengthening of the
epidermis. Only a small amount is
needed within formulas to achieve
beneficial results.
It has also been shown to help
sunburned and ultraviolet damaged skin
Healing and Anti-inflammatory: The
unique healing properties of
Pomegranate seed oil are due to its
unique composition of fatty acids,
mainly punicic acid (CLA). The high
content of conjugated fatty acids in
pomegranate oil gives it strong anti-
inflammatory properties and makes it a
highly beneficial ingredient to reduce
swelling and ease muscular aches and
pains. Pomegranate oil can promote
procollagen synthesis and strengthen
the epidermis. It provides relief from
minor skin irritations and inflammation,
including dry skin, eczema, psoriasis and
sunburned skin.
Hair Care: Pomegranate oil is wonderful
oil for hair because it revitalizes dull and
dry hair and protects it from
environmental pollution and chemicals.
Apart from the cosmetic uses
pomegranate oil possesses some of the
medicinal uses which make
pomegranate oil unique Oil.
Skin care: Pomegranate oil is said to
help with collagen production, acts as a
free radical scavenger and boost
restoration and repair of the skin.
Several recent studies have shown that
Are there any side effects? There are no side effects reported good choice for use in applications
intended for dry or irritated skin or
aging skin.
Pomegranate seed oil has a remarkable
ability to nourish moisturize and repair
the epidermis and improve skin
elasticity. Pomegranate seed oil adds
moisture, has natural estrogenic
properties, anti-oxidants, is anti-
inflammatory, anti-microbial, improves
skin elasticity, and protects the skin.
What is it? Frankincense, also called olibanum , is
an aromatic resin obtained from trees of the
genus Boswellia. There are four
main species of Boswellia which produce
true frankincense and each type of resin is
available in various grades. Indfrag offers
frankinscence from Boswellia Serrata.
What are its benefits?
Anti Septic: Frankincense Oil is good as an
anti septic. It can be applied on wounds
without any harm or side effect to protect
them from tetanus and being septic. It is
equally good on treating Acne outbreaks
Astringent: The astringent property of
Frankincense Oil has many benefits. It
strengthens gums, hair roots, tones and lifts
skin, contracts muscles, intestines and blood
vessels, thereby giving protection from
untimely fall of tooth and hair, wrinkles, loss
of firmness of intestines and muscles of
abdominal area and limbs associated with
age and above all, helps stop flow of blood
from wounds and cuts.
Cicatrisant: This is an interesting property
of Frankincense Oil. It makes the scars and
after marks of boils, acne and pox etc. on
the skin to fade away. This includes fading
of stretch marks and surgery marks, fat
cracks etc. associated with pregnancy
Cytophylactic: Being a Cytophylactic,
Frankincense Oil promotes regeneration of
healthy cells and also keeps the existing
cells and tissues healthy.
Calmative: Frankincense Oil aromatically is
very effective as a calmative. It induces a
feeling of mental peace, relaxation,
satisfaction and spirituality.
Vulnerary: Just apply a diluted solution of
this oil on wounds, or use it blended with a
skin cream, and get your wounds heal faster
and protected from infections.
Other Benefits: It keeps skin healthy and
young, relieves pain associated with
rheumatism, arthritis etc. It helps heal boils,
rotten wounds, acne, circulatory problems,
insomnia and inflammation
Are there any side effects?No known adverse side effects at all for
topical use. If being delivered internally
should not be used during pregnancy, being
an emenagogue and astringent.
What is it? The sea-buckthorns (Hippophae L.)
are deciduous shrubs found in the foothills
of the Himalayas. Sea Buckthorn plants
produce orange berries that are soft and
juicy, and rich in vitamin C, in fact gram for
gram, Sea Buckthorn berries contain about
twelve times more vitamin C as oranges.It is
highly nutritive, rich in Vitamin A, E, P and K
as well as B vitamins, infuses the skin with
essential fatty acids and phytosterols,
promotes healing and the reduction of acne
activity, can be used in cosmetics for related
purposes.
What are its benefits?
Regenerative effects: These were
discovered during experiments on patients
with skin defects. It promotes healing of
burns, external wounds and sores, e.g.
bedsores.
Skin nutritive and restorative: The only
other major plant source of palmitoleic acid
is macadamia nuts; the oil is used to nourish
the skin. It contains anti-oxidants like
vitamin E and beta-carotene that effectively
combat wrinkles, dryness, and other
symptoms of aging or of a neglected skin.
Hence it shows rejuvenating, restorative and
anti-aging action.
Sunscreen: Sea-buckthorn oils are also
believed to have a biological protective
capacity. Sea Buckthorn aids in tissue
regeneration, helps heal radiation burns.
The tocopherols and carotenoids can trap
and reduce the formation of UV-B induced
toxic products in skin cells. Due to these
UV-B absorptive properties, sea buckthorn
oils may be used by industry as a natural
sun screen.
Are there any side effects?Seabuckthorn Oil does not have any side
effects reported for topical usage.
Consumption may cause increased blood
flow and micro-circulation hence should be
avoided before a surgery.
|
